DIY Northern Lights Hunt in Murmansk: My Epic Winter Adventure
I just got back from an amazing 15-day trip to Russia over Lunar New Year 2025, from late January to early February. My itinerary took me from Moscow to Murmansk, Teriberka, and then Irkutsk at Lake Baikal. Since so many friends have been asking for tips, I'm sharing my full DIY experience here—everything I know about chasing the Northern Lights in Murmansk and soaking up Moscow's winter magic.
Moscow's Winter Wonderland: Festive Vibes and Hidden Gems
I absolutely loved Moscow's winter atmosphere. The city was decked out in Christmas decorations everywhere, with giant Christmas trees still up at the end of January. Right in the middle of Red Square, they set up an ice skating rink, and the Christmas markets were super fun and lively.
We visited Tsaritsyno Palace, which was nearly empty—perfect for snowy photo ops all around. The highlight? Renting noble costumes for unlimited photos for just 500 rubles. Totally worth it for those magical shots.
The Slow Train to Murmansk: A Scenic Must-Do
From Moscow, hop on the Artika train—the "Arctic Express." It's not fast; it takes a full 36 hours to reach Murmansk, but at about 1.7 million VND, it's a steal. You'll pass through the snowy taiga forests with white blankets on both sides—stunning views that make the journey worthwhile.
Murmansk and Teriberka: Escaping the Crowds for Prime Aurora Hunting
We arrived in Murmansk around noon and rented a car with a driver to head straight to Teriberka for an overnight stay. My biggest gripe? Murmansk is overrun with Chinese tour groups—everywhere you look. That's why staying in Teriberka was spot-on: quieter and less hectic, though day tours still bring crowds the next day.
Pro tip: Spend one night here. Your driver can take you just 2-3 km from the accommodation to the seaside for free aurora viewing at night. Since it's private transport, you're on your own for photos.
Next morning, we did a day tour of Teriberka's main spots—getting there early beat the tour buses, giving us more time and fewer people. Best part? Watching snow fall right on the beach. Every spot was magical with thick, fresh snow.
Smart Aurora Chasing: Easy to Spot, But Plan Ahead
Northern Lights here are super reliable—easier to see than a rainbow. I spotted them both nights I tried. Tours often cancel if forecasts say no show, saving time and money. Most have a 50% refund policy if nothing appears.
Tours pack 50+ people (mostly Chinese) into one spot for group photos—each person gets just 1-2 shots per stop. Pick the cheapest one (4,000-6,000 rubles per night); pricier ones are the same. They run 7pm to midnight, hitting 3-4 spots. Drivers text each other to chase the lights, then everyone races over.
Big warning: Photos come in low-res Zalo quality! My group and friends got burned—tours refused originals. Always confirm if you get high-res files from their pro cameras.
Other Winter Adventures: Snowmobiles, Ice Floats, and More
- Snowmobiling and winter sports: Add a day for Khibiny Mountains—wild and perfect for it. In Teriberka, we rode snowmobiles near the frozen waterfall (group ride with staff). Pair it with Snow City in Khibiny.
- Snowshoeing: Mount Mishukova or Khibiny. I dreamed of it like in cartoons but skipped—looks tough!
- Ice floating: Not as pretty as ads. Check YouTube—gray skies, dark sea, meh photos.
- Whale watching in Barents Sea: Whales migrate October-January. I skipped in February. Dress ultra-warm (windy!); sightings are quick flashes.
- Igloo resorts: Aurora Village books up fast with Chinese groups. We stayed at Lapland Village (5 million VND for 3 people/night). Remote forest spot like Frozen—pristine snow, no footprints. Stay post-checkout for pics, but expect deep snow, not open Instagram angles.
Sami Village and Husky/Reindeer Rides (From Friends' Tips)
Tourist villages are crowded with Chinese fighting over reindeer photos—go for remote ones. Sled rides (dogs or reindeer) are brutally cold and windy; packages promise an hour but you'll tap out after 10 minutes. Premium pick: Lovozero Husky Park (far from town, limits to 50 guests/day, super wild). Value of the Moment tours get great Western reviews. Reindeer antlers here aren't as impressive as Mongolia's.
Practical Tips for DIY Success
- Getting around Murmansk: Yandex Go works great. Tasty restaurant near the train station.
- Teriberka eats: Fresh seafood! Loved cod fillets; skip king crab (cheaper in Japan/Korea).
- Clothing: For -10 to -20°C, layer 3 shirts + 2 thermals + puffer jacket. Use heat patches everywhere. Deshell for photos.
- Photography: Phones/cameras work above -15°C; colder, they die. Go tour for their gear or hire private driver if mild. Drivers network via chat for hot spots—no refunds if no lights, though.
- Airport woes: Murmansk's is tiny, packed with Chinese, hot inside despite blizzards outside—no staff in sight.
- Connectivity: SIMs glitch; rent physical Vietnamese ones from friends like Hảo in Russia. She also books trains/hotels—wish I'd known sooner. Saved me WhatsApp haggling in Russian for our apartment.
- Daylight: Late January sun's up just 4 hours (10am-2pm). Plan around it—dim light like eternal dusk makes photos tricky. Check my midday shots for reference.
After Murmansk, we flew to Irkutsk for Lake Baikal—way more jaw-dropping. Stay tuned for Part 2!
