The Truth About Saigon's Iconic Banh Mi and Broken Rice
The famous Huynh Hoa Banh Mi and Ba Ghiền Broken Rice are neither truly Saigon cuisine nor representative of Southern Vietnamese culinary style.
Saigon locals, adhering to the Southern culinary school, enjoy food that is visually appealing and satisfying to eat. Southern cuisine, while ample, is balanced—it satisfies the stomach without being overwhelming, unlike the excesses seen at Huynh Hoa or Ba Ghiền.
The Issue with Huynh Hoa Banh Mi
I have tried Huynh Hoa Banh Mi and have strong feelings about it. The reality is that they stuff an overwhelming amount of ingredients into one baguette, so much so that the pickles often have to be packed separately.
A heavily stuffed, expensive baguette is unnecessary because the abundance of cold cuts masks the true flavor of the bread itself. Banh Mi is inherently a humble, affordable snack, meant to be light and easy to eat, not a heavy meal.
Therefore, Huynh Hoa Banh Mi is best described as catering to a Western palate. Most locals would feel unwell after finishing even half of one.
Showing up to a Banh Mi fair and queuing for a Huynh Hoa creation means you might as well stop there; one sandwich can barely be finished by three people. This style kills the culinary experience. The bread is too large, excessively slathered with butter and pâté, cramming nearly ten different fillings inside—it's a habit geared towards overwhelming the digestive system, driven by sheer gluttony.
The Pâté Overload
Modern banh mi excessively uses liver pâté! They seem to imitate the haphazard style of Huynh Hoa. The amount they spread is frightening; the strong scent of liver pâté completely drowns out all other flavors. In the past, a thin layer of liver pâté was applied just enough to blend with the cold cuts, sausages, sauces, pickles, and cucumber, creating a memorable harmony. Now, they slather the bread with endless pâté and butter. The right amount of pâté is aromatic; too much becomes overwhelmingly pungent.
If you buy a Huynh Hoa Banh Mi at noon, you struggle to finish half, bagging the rest for the evening. Storing liver pâté and cold cuts for long periods isn't healthy, and refrigerating the bread ruins it—it's better thrown away!
Ba Ghiền and the Illusion of Broken Rice
Saigon is the spiritual home of Cơm Tấm Sườn Bì Chả (Broken Rice with Grilled Rib, Shredded Pork Skin, and Egg Meatloaf), but Ba Ghiền's version is not authentic Saigon Broken Rice.
Honestly, I have never managed to finish the enormous grilled rib at Ba Ghiền. I struggle to finish one-third of the massive piece; the rest must be bagged to take home. A plate, priced arbitrarily at VND 145,000, contains barely one scoop of rice, with the massive rib, skin, and meatloaf dominating the plate. It's called broken rice, but you barely see any!
Furthermore, the grilled rib must be eaten hot; when it cools, it becomes dry and loses its appeal. Dining should be about savoring the experience, not carrying leftovers home.
As a Southern person, I dislike the stingy, small portions often associated with Hue style. Southern eating should be generous to please the eyes. However, the excess at Ba Ghiền leads to feeling sick, overfed, stomach distress, and eventually, a strong aversion to the dish itself.
Thus, despite its name, I am not addicted to Ba Ghiền's broken rice; one visit is a permanent goodbye.
Redefining Saigon Authenticity
Huynh Hoa Banh Mi, Trang Banh Mi, and Ba Ghiền Broken Rice are not the quintessential examples of Saigon street food. People are being misled about what these dishes truly represent.
Huynh Hoa Banh Mi (and later, Bà Huynh Banh Mi) is sold in Saigon, but it does not represent Saigon's culinary identity. Ba Ghiền Broken Rice does not reflect the genuine Saigon style.
These overpriced, overstuffed food trends are enemies of good health.
Young people who love Saigon culture must not confuse these trends with tradition!
— Shared by Mr. Nguyen Gia Viet
The administrator notes this viewpoint is quite interesting and shares it here. However, when guiding friends through quick, essential local check-ins, the mentioned spots are necessary. For alternatives or additions, consider places like Nhung Chang Trai Banh Mi, Bùi Thị Xuân Sweet Soups and Sticky Rice, the subterranean market food at Taka Plaza, the Hồ Thị Kỉ snack street, or the food scene around Tân Định Market. We should feel proud and happy that these vendors have made great efforts to promote Vietnamese cuisine!
