A Whirlwind 12-Day European Adventure: Portugal, Spain, and Italy
Hello fellow travelers! I've just returned from an incredible 12-day journey through three stunning European countries in early October, and I'm excited to share some firsthand experiences and tips to help you plan your own adventure.
Our group of two flew from Germany to Lisbon, Portugal, with the budget airline Ryanair. We opted for the 10kg carry-on allowance; otherwise, you're restricted to a small bag that fits under the seat. While they don't weigh carry-ons, they do check sizes, particularly on flights like our hop from Seville, Spain, to Bergamo, Italy. Traveling within the EU meant no currency exchange hassle, as all three nations use the Euro.
Portugal: Sunshine, Seashells, and Sweet Treats
The Portuguese are wonderfully accommodating, with many speaking excellent English, making communication and navigation a breeze. The weather in early October was a dream – pleasantly warm during the day with cool, slightly chilly evenings.
Lisbon: A City of Hills and History
Lisbon, Portugal's captivating capital, sits by the sea, though the city center isn't ideal for beach access. Be prepared for a workout! This city is built on steep hills, and many climbs involve relentless staircases that can be quite challenging. We stayed for three nights and found a rechargeable public transport card invaluable. Loading 15 Euros onto it allowed us to tap for the Metro, buses, and iconic trams. We even had one ride left over when we departed.
A must-try Lisbon delicacy is the Pastéis de Nata, those divine custard tarts famously created by monks. You'll need to take a bus for about 30 minutes to the Belem district to find the legendary bakery, conveniently located next to a monastery. Expect a queue, but the reward is well worth the wait. The food across Lisbon and Portugal is generally varied and well-seasoned, with reasonable prices for restaurant meals.
No visit to Lisbon is complete without a ride on Tram 28. This charming, tiny tram navigates the steep, winding streets of the old town, offering a picturesque journey through history.
Lagos: Coastal Charm and Seaside Delights
We booked our train tickets from Lisbon to Lagos several months in advance, snagging fast-train tickets for a mere 13 Euros each. The ticket inspector on board diligently checked our passports against the booking details. Lagos, a beautiful seaside town in the south, offered easy transportation via ride-sharing apps like Bolt or Uber to reach stunning beaches about 2 kilometers from the old town, costing around 3-4 Euros per trip.
While beaches closer to the old town boast dramatic rock formations, they can have seaweed, which, though not itchy, can be a bit unpleasant. A 10-minute drive to longer stretches of coastline revealed plenty of seaweed-free spots. The sea water was a bit bracing at first in early October, but once you immersed yourself, it was perfectly swimmable.
As a coastal town, Lagos offers an abundance of fresh seafood. I particularly enjoyed the grilled fish and squid, which retained their natural, delicious flavors.
Spain: Sun-Drenched Streets and Savory Bites
Communicating in English can be a bit trickier in Spain. We found ourselves unable to purchase public transport tickets at a tobacco shop in Seville for our long-distance bus journey from Lagos. Spanish cuisine is wonderfully diverse. For smaller portions, opt for Tapas; small plates typically cost between 4-6 Euros.
A famous Spanish delicacy is cured ham. Prices vary wildly, from a few dozen Euros for a whole leg to the most extravagant we saw at 1200 Euros for a 4-6kg leg, complete with bone and rind. The weather in Spain during our visit was hot and sunny, with evenings turning quite cool.
Seville: Architectural Grandeur and Historic Heart
Our journey from Lagos to Seville took over 5 hours by FlixBus. Interestingly, this particular route didn't have the onboard toilets typically found on FlixBus services in Germany, and the driver didn't make any stops. Since we couldn't buy tickets from the bus station to our hotel, we boarded the bus and used our phones to tap and pay for our fares directly – one person tapping twice with Apple Pay covered our fare for two people for that one journey.
Our accommodation was in the historic old town, rendering internal transportation unnecessary. Seville's old quarter is best explored on foot, with its maze of charming narrow streets and alleyways. The city is a feast for the eyes, boasting stunning ancient architecture. Highlights include the magnificent Cathedral and the Royal Alcázar palace. Booking tickets online at least a week in advance is highly recommended. I missed the online booking window for the Alcázar and had to rise at 7 AM to join a lengthy queue for tickets.
Cordoba: A Day Trip Gem
Cordoba is just an hour away from Seville by fast train from the main station. We booked our round-trip tickets several months prior, securing a great deal at 50 Euros for two people. Both our outward and return journeys experienced about an hour's delay. If you wish to catch an earlier train, visiting the customer service desk at the station can sometimes help you switch tickets.
Spanish train stations conduct luggage scans before you can access the platforms, and entry to the platform is only permitted 20 minutes before departure. Cordoba is a compact city, and we enjoyed a day trip, exploring its old town and shops before returning to Seville by 7 PM.
The most striking feature of Cordoba is its cathedral, a breathtaking fusion of Islamic and Christian architectural styles.
Bergamo – Milan, Italy: An Unexpected Italian Charm
Initially, I booked two separate Ryanair flights from Seville to Berlin, with a tight 40-minute layover in Bergamo. This caused some anxiety about missing my connection. Consequently, I canceled my connecting flight from Bergamo to Berlin to spend a night in Bergamo. Upon landing, we took a bus into Bergamo airport. Right at the entrance, we saw the gate for connecting flights, and it turned out our flight to Berlin was still boarding. Had I kept my original ticket, I would have made it to Berlin!
Bergamo proved to be a delightful surprise. The old city, perched high on a hill, is encircled by ancient walls, offering breathtaking sunset views. The narrow, winding streets of the old town often involve steep inclines, adding to its unique character. The funicular railway to reach the upper town always had a long line of eager tourists, despite the short ride.
On the day we left Bergamo, the city was hosting a Marathon. This meant no buses ran from the center to the old town on the hill. We had to walk a considerable distance back to our Airbnb to collect our luggage, then walk another 15 minutes to the bus stop at the train station to catch a bus to the airport. At Bergamo airport, we purchased a 24-hour bus ticket from a machine at the bus stop. The bus was packed, making boarding with luggage a tight squeeze. Once on board, we tapped our ticket once to validate it; no further taps were needed for subsequent bus rides within the 24-hour period.
Trip Summary
Our 12-day, three-country, five-city adventure, flying from Germany, cost approximately 1500 Euros per person, covering transportation, accommodation, and meals. Each country offered a distinct and memorable experience. For those with more time, consider extending your stay in Italy, perhaps exploring Milan, the world's fashion capital.
Cre: Bằng Phạm
